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United States Exploring Expedition
Topic Started: Jan 8 2010, 05:18 PM (351 Views)
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May 18, 1836

Congress has authorized funding for an ambitious exploratory voyage around the world, which aims to generate new scientific knowledge and promote international commerce. Originally conceived in 1828, the United States Exploring Expedition will be composed of a joint military and civilian crew, including naturalists, botanists, surveyors, and mineralogists.

A study will be made of the available ships in the fleet and other preparatory measures undertaken immediately, with the objective of beginning the voyage no later than 1837.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
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August 2, 1836

Preparations for the "Ex. Ex.", as it is now being called in the press, continue following the promotion of Lt. Charles Wilkes to overall command after the resignation of Commodore Thomas Ap Catesby Jones.

Approximately a dozen ships in the U.S. fleet have been marked as vessels of interest by the new commander, and invitations to prominent scientists from major American universities and other civilians with useful skills are being drawn up.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
- Zachary Taylor
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May 18, 1837

Preparations continue a year after funding for the Ex. Ex. was appropriated by Congress. Seven ships have been selected to take part in the voyage: Vincennes, Peacock, Porpoise, Relief, Flying Fish, Sea Gull, and Consort.

The planned route of the expedition will take it from the port of Norfolk south to Sao Paulo, Brazil; around Tierra del Fuego to Chile and then to Sydney, Australia; along the Southern Seas in search of the Antarctic continent; north to Fiji and Hawaii as part of the extended Central Pacific survey; northeast to Oregon and Alta California; and finally west toward the Philippines, Borneo and Singapore, and around the Cape of Good Hope back to the United States.

The entire journey is expected to last four or more years, given its ambitious goals and the area covered.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
- Zachary Taylor
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November 9, 1837

The seven ships of the United States Exploring Squadron have departed Virginia to begin their long journey around South America for the Southern Seas. Reports from the coast indicate the squadron cleared the Cape Henry Light early this morning and are heading for Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, their first destination. In addition to its original scientific tasks, the expedition has been granted permission to claim any uncharted lands it discovers for the United States.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
- Zachary Taylor
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November - December 1837

After getting underway from Virginia the Ex. Ex. made an easterly tack of the Atlantic, proceeding to the vicinity of Ascension Island to survey reported shoals. The squadron then set sail for Rio de Janerio in Brazil, being aided by favorable winds throughout December. It put into port on the last day of the year and was greeted warmly by local residents.


January - March 1838

After some minor repairs to the Peacock in January, the squadron departed Brazil for Buenos Aires on the 26th. It then rounded the southern tip of South America, visiting Tierra del Fuego and collecting several exotic plant specimens of interest at Orange Bay.

In March the expedition surveyed the South Shetland Islands, encountering large populations of penguins and a few icebergs said to be as large as the U.S. Capitol building.


April - June 1838

The squadron then made for the port of Valparaiso in Chile, arriving in late May despite the Relief's slow progress from the mainland and heavy damage to the Sea Gull from stormy weather. Throughout June the squadron remained in port awaiting repairs and a change in the poor weather and wind conditions.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
- Zachary Taylor
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June - October 1838

After the storms in the South Pacific abated in mid June, the expedition set out from Chile for the Tuamotu Archipelago and Samoa. Its surveys there completed, the fleet then traveled to New South Wales in Australia, arriving in the port of Sydney on October 3. It took on supplies and repaired damage sustained during storms in September as the crew enjoyed a layover.


November 1838 - February 1839

Storms throughout November kept the Exploring Expedition in port a full month, but the scientific corps lost no time cataloging interesting animal species and interviewing locals. The squadron finally set out from Sydney in early December to look for incontrovertible proof of an Antarctic continent in the Southern Seas, one of its main objectives. A landmass at least 1,500 miles long was eventually spotted west of the Balleny Islands, and the expedition spent considerable time mapping and surveying it. Subsequently named "Wilkes Land" after the squadron's commanding officer, it was claimed for the United States.


March - April 1839

After returning to Australia to take on supplies, the expedition laid in a course for Fiji to make an extended survey of the archipelago's aquatic and plant life.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
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May - August 1839

Throughout mid 1839 the expedition visited Fiji, mapping much of the two main islands and gaining knowledge of the local culture.

An unfortunate incident occurred in July, when a party that had been sent ashore to trade for food and supplies was ambushed by hordes of natives. The attack, which resulted in the deaths of two officers - including Charles Wilkes' nephew - had evidently been prearranged by Fijian chiefs and was soon followed by retaliation from the rest of the squadron.


September - December 1839

Late in the year the expedition landed at Hull Island, then surveyed the Hawaiian archipelago. Calling at Honolulu, Wilkes and his men met with leaders of the Kingdom of Hawaii and, to their surprise, encountered a number of French officials who had been dispatched there to demand reparations for attacks on Catholic missions. This had previously resulted in King Kamehameha issuing an edict of religious toleration in July.

During their extended stay, the Americans learned a great deal about the flora and fauna of the main islands, and maintained friendly contact with the royal government. They also met various ships assigned to the U.S. Pacific Squadron, including the crews of the Enterprise and Constitution.

In December an exploration of the westernmost portion of the archipelago was conducted, and a number of previously uncharted islands were discovered by the fleet. One atoll was determined to lie very near the mid point of the Pacific, situated on a longitude halfway between the Chinese coast and the west coast of North America. For this reason it has been named "Midway Island" by Wilkes' cartographers, and was subsequently claimed by right of discovery for the United States. Along with Wake Island, similarly claimed in December, the atoll constitutes the first United States overseas possession.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
- Zachary Taylor
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January - September 1840

Surveys in and around Hawaii continued into early 1840 when Wilkes ordered the fleet to depart for Oregon, one of its primary destinations. Key points of interest included the Juan de Fuca straits, Puget Sound, and the Columbia River. Bainbridge Island served as the squadron's base for most of the inland expeditions, some of which traveled well beyond Fort Nez Perce.

Many new geographical features and harbors were mapped during the survey, such as Eagle Harbor, Bill Point and Wing Point, all named after Oregon's avian life. Wilkes decided to name Ports Madison, Washington and Points Monroe and Jefferson in honor of the former U.S. presidents, further legitimating American possession of the territory. Port Ludlow was assigned to honor Lt. Augustus Ludlow, who lost his life in an 1813 sea battle.

While in Oregon the squadron encountered many fur traders as well as a small group of Presbyterian missionaries living at the Whitman Mission. Extensive surveying was done in preparation for eventual colonization of the territory by American settlers heading west from Missouri or by sea from the Isthmus of Panama. A number of attractive sites along the Columbia River and the Willamette Lowlands were selected for the potential establishment of towns. Following this Wilkes continued his exploration of the San Juan Islands to the north.

The Peacock was lost on the Columbia River in September 1840, though thankfully no lives or records were lost in its sinking.

An overland party headed by George F. Emmons has been directed to proceed to San Francisco in Alta California along the Siskiyou Trail, gathering topographical data as well as information on local Indians and flora and fauna. The main fleet will continue to survey the northern portion of the west coast before rendezvousing in San Francisco with Emmons' crew in early 1841.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
- Zachary Taylor
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October 1840 - May 1841

Emmons' party spent a good deal of time exploring the inner reaches of Alta California, and despite some tensions with local Mexican authorities they experienced no real hardships. Many of the crew wintered in San Francisco and the surrounding settlements, maintaining friendly contact with the locals. Their initial drawings and descriptions filtering back to Washington reaffirm impressions of California's rich and beautiful wild country, with excellent natural harbors at San Francisco and other points along the coast.

Wilkes' squadron completed their surveys in Oregon in March 1841 and traveled south to meet Emmons later that month. After taking on supplies in April and awaiting the rest of the team to reach port, they departed for a survey of the far north, arriving in Queen Charlotte Island in May.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
- Zachary Taylor
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June 1841 - March 1842

Throughout the summer months the Ex. Ex. surveyed the northern coast of Oregon and Alaska. Surprising news arrived in July when the United States Pacific Fleet under Commodore Thomas ap Catesby Jones sailed into the harbor of Sitka and demanded the surrender of the entire colony. Jones brought word of an imminent war between the Russian Empire and Great Britain, and had come to secure the area under the banner of a neutral power. The scientific survey of Alaska proved fruitful but was thus cut short.

In September, the fleet again visited Hawaii to take on supplies before moving out for Wake Island and then Guam. It put into port at the Philippines, and two ships were dispatched to make a preliminary landing on the Japanese islands to attempt to contact the natives and find out more about their culture. Unlike previous visitors, they were not immediately driven away (apparently due to the lack of military presence in the immediate vicinity) but in any case did not stay long.

After this the fleet's tasks were completed, and Wilkes began the long return to America by way of the Sulu Archipelago, Borneo, Singapore, and Polynesia, continuing to make observations and surveys along the way. The squadron rounded the Cape of Good Hope in early 1842 and finally reached New York on March 10, over four years after it had left Hampton Roads. The sailors and civilians were greeted with cheers from local citizens and Wilkes himself was received by the President later in the month.

Much scientific information was gathered throughout the expedition, and now the process of compiling and distributing the data commences.
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"For more than half a century, during which kingdoms and empires have fallen, this Union has stood unshaken. The patriots who formed it have long since descended to the grave; yet still it remains, the proudest monument to their memory."
- Zachary Taylor
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