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| My trio of blizzards... | |
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| Topic Started: Mar 1 2013, 09:40 AM (580 Views) | |
| whitrzac | Mar 1 2013, 09:40 AM Post #1 |
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Right: original nitro, bought NIB and assembled. Center: vintage DX left: Df-300 EV with titan 12t, on a 3s IDK what to do with the nitro... I can't get the brakes to work properly, the pads don't grip the disk... The DX will be turned into a shelf queen, I'm thinking A-Team van DF-300 will become a general use mayhem machine. Does anyone have a gearing suggestion for a t12t and a 3s?
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| flexator | Mar 1 2013, 04:11 PM Post #2 |
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Very nice colection, on the pinion I would start around 20t, watch the motor temp as you go up in pinion size. |
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| whitrzac | Mar 3 2013, 03:36 PM Post #3 |
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I picked up a castle 3900kv/sidewinder for cheap... 3s with a 32t pinion... Soooo much fun... |
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| FrozenRC | Mar 3 2013, 03:42 PM Post #4 |
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Worthless with out video!!
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| whitrzac | Mar 3 2013, 10:07 PM Post #5 |
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soon... Why does it hop/jump when accelerating on pavement? I've already broken one of the rear trailing arms... Is there any other parts that I should re-engineer or keep on hand? |
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| REAPER | Mar 3 2013, 10:35 PM Post #6 |
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"It's only Money"
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I think one of the main factors is the direction the tracks are pulled, with the drive sprocket on the front it pulls the tracks tight across the top of the wheels and pushes the track under the wheels. So the little bit of slack in the tracks gets "bunched" on up acceleration and starts the hopping effect couple that with the smaller springs on the rear wheels doesn't help much either. If you drive in reverse you should notice that the hopping effect is very minimal in comparison to driving forward (that is if you can keep it tracks down). That's just my theory
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| whitrzac | Mar 5 2013, 11:34 AM Post #7 |
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Broke another rear trailing arm this morning.. Any recommendations? |
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| Toyranosaur | Mar 6 2013, 04:56 PM Post #8 |
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Hmmm! Lessee....You could: -Drive slower -Drive less fast -Not drive at all But these suggestions all stink! Where is it breaking? If it's the same place, it may give some indicator of the problem. Also, just a thought, if you can program your ESC to 'roll on' the power just a tad instead of hitting full blast all at once, that may be good- You won't lose top speed or anything, and a little should make a definite difference. Chris REC
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| gdb85 | Mar 6 2013, 09:08 PM Post #9 |
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I've broken a couple myself. Both times it was right on the screw hole where the rod end attaches. I put a 3mm nut on the back side to capture the bolt and have not had an issue since. I think it is just prolonging the inevitable, since the arm is plastic and I insist on jumping snow piles and snow banks. |
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| whitrzac | Mar 6 2013, 11:01 PM Post #10 |
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I've broken 2 on the screw hole and one snapped off flush with the wheel mount. I need to open it back up, my right brake isn't working... FYI, the castle ESC does not like snow.... |
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| whitrzac | Mar 9 2013, 05:08 PM Post #11 |
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Broke the track tensioner part today.... I have a few ideas, but has anyone been able to fix the rear trailing arm issues? |
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| whitrzac | Mar 9 2013, 08:07 PM Post #12 |
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uhg... too much powa... Something between the brakes and the motor is fubared... works fine in reverse, but not forward. |
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| REAPER | Mar 9 2013, 09:08 PM Post #13 |
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"It's only Money"
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Can never have to much power... look at everything and make sure its all set up correctly, including your esc and transmitter (something might have gotten bumped). Does every thing turn freely by hand in either direction, is your chain or track tension in need of adjustment? |
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Where is it breaking? If it's the same place, it may give some indicator of the problem. Also, just a thought, if you can program your ESC to 'roll on' the power just a tad instead of hitting full blast all at once, that may be good- You won't lose top speed or anything, and a little should make a definite difference. Chris REC
4:36 AM Jul 11