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Sabertooth 2x10 RC review
Topic Started: Nov 18 2009, 12:28 PM (4,118 Views)
Itch
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The Sabertooth 2x10 RC by Dimension Engineering was designed specifically for Tanks/Battlebots where a dual driver ESC is needed.

Specs/write up from Dimension Engineering:

Sabertooth 2X10 R/C is our dual motor driver specifically optimized for use in radio controlled vehicles. It is suitable for medium powered robots, cars and boats.

Out of the box, it can supply two DC brushed motors with up to 10A each. Peak currents of 15A are achievable for a few seconds. Overcurrent and thermal protection means you'll never have to worry about killing the driver with accidental stalls or by hooking up too big a motor.

This special R/C edition of our motor driver comes with an invert channel and options for exponential control, autocalibration and built-in mixing. The operating mode is set with the onboard DIP switches so there are no jumpers to lose.

Sabertooth is the first synchronous regenerative motor driver in its class. The regenerative topology means that your batteries get recharged whenever you command your robot to slow down or reverse. Sabertooth also allows you to make very fast stops and reverses - giving your vehicle a quick and nimble edge.

Sabertooth has a built in 5V BEC that can provide power to a microcontroller or R/C receiver. The lithium cutoff mode allows Sabertooth to operate safely with lithium ion and lithium polymer battery packs - the highest energy density batteries available.

Sabertooth's transistors are switched at ultrasonic speeds (32kHz) for silent operation.

Model: Sabertooth 2X10 R/C
Specifications: Up to 18V in: 10A continuous, 15A peak per channel.
24V in: 8A continuous, 10A continuous with additional heatsinking/airflow, 15A peak per channel.

Synchronous regenerative drive
Ultra-sonic switching frequency
Thermal and overcurrent protection
Lithium protection mode

Applications: Combat robots up to 30lb
Differential drive robots
Radio controlled tanks, cars and boats
Roving cyborg bobcats


Pros:
- Control each motor independantly or in "mixed mode" from one stick, but still have complete control over each motor.
- Regenerative ESC
- Easy programming
- Great price
- Wide Voltage range

Cons:
- BEC will not support servos, but only a receiver, so separate BEC is necessary if using servos
- Will not work with AM surface systems, especially channel 5
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Pistenjaeger2010
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I have inside of my PB600Polar a servonaut M220 from tematik.

It is able to work from 7,2 - 16,8V and 2x20 amperé.

There are a lot of connectins for rear lights, soundmoduls, ....

The price is a little worse. 210,-€ (maybe 160,-$) at last a good quality and service.
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Cross

I will have to let you know how my Sabertooth works out once I get things going.
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Itch
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I have been very pleased with it. I am even using the larger 2x25 Sabertooth for my super secret project, not snowcat related though.
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MountainGoat

Hello,

New to this board. I purchased a vintage Blizzard DX and I am replacing to old style controllers with a Sabertooth 2x12R/C. It appears that you have installed one of those in your Blizzard? If so, can you please provide a photo of how you connected the motors to the board?

I am not very skilled in the electronics portion of things so I want to ask and do it right! thank you in advance for any assitance.
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Itch
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Welcome! There are several of use with DX's that use the Sabertooth. Connecting the motors to the Sabertooth is not an issue, you can wire the + and - any way, it is just the battery that you can't switch. Switching the polarity on the battery to the sabertooth will damage the sabertooth.

This is the best picture I have right now, but can take a better one later.

Posted Image

If anyone else has a better picture please feel free to jump in.

Also, there is more information at dimension engineering's website:

Posted Image

http://www.dimensionengineering.com/datasheets/Sabertooth2x10RC.pdf
Edited by Itch, Apr 21 2011, 09:59 AM.
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MountainGoat

Itch,

Wow! Thanks for the quick response. It looks like the battery connections are the only tricky spot and the Sabertooth controller has a B+ and B- if I am not mistaken. Red is the positive and black is the negative, correct? Again, I am very weak in this area.

As for the other connections, can you provide a more detailed photo when you have time? No rush on this. I truly appreciate the help.

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Itch
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Not a problem. Yes, Red is Positive and Black is Negative. Look at the diagram I posted closely, and here is a photo from mine.

Posted Image
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MountainGoat

Itch,

Thanks for the help you are providing. I am considering putting new wires on the motors to make the new connections. What would you recommend for a wire gauge and would you use braided wire or solid? Do I need special solder?

Thank you for all of your help.
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Itch
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For the DX, you could use a very small gauge wire. The motors only pull maybe 5 amps at full stall. Any wire will really work that you have around. I prefer using a nice stranded "noodle wire" Deans makes some good stuff as well as Turnigy.

A standard 60/40 solder will work just fine.
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Small Factory
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Formally Timmy2Tracks
Mountain goat, you are going to love the Sabertooth controller. I recently installed the 2x12 unit, and it makes the DX a complete pleasure to use. I soldered on new wires to the motors, but unfortunately used wire that was to big, and it was a chore to get them to fit in the Sabertooth unit. 16 or 18 gauge wire should be perfect.
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MountainGoat

thanks again to all who are assiting me. I have connected all of my wiring as Itch has shown in his photo. I have connected my spectrum ar6110 receiver to the two cords on the sabertooth. I placed the ch1 chord in the throttle slot and the ch2 cord in the rudder slot. When I power everything up, one of the motors just races and my controller will not do anything. What I have done wrong???

Help!
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Itch
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I would suggest putting the blizzard up on "blocks" so that the center of the chassis on some scrap 2x4's or something so the tracks are not touching the ground.

You turn on the transmitter 1st, wait a couple seconds, make sure all channels are centered (trim and sticks are centered). I assume you haven't mixed any of the channels on the transmitter, which is a good thing. Plug in the sabertooth, if it still goes crazy does it respond to any input from the transmitter? This will tell you if it is a set-up error on the transmitter or interference/the receiver is not "bound" to the transmitter.

Have you used this receiver before? Just want to make sure you have followed the "bind" procedure with a new receiver to a transmitter.
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phatchantz
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Dips ( dip switches ) ? ( 1 set to on - mix - I think that default is off ) re-binding is always good ( as Itch mentioned )
Edited by phatchantz, Apr 28 2011, 12:25 PM.
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MountainGoat

You guys have been a great help to me. OK. We are almost there now. I have gotten it to run. I put the motors back in their saddles and when I powered it up, the left right control makes it go forward and reverse and the up down stick will make it turn. I forgot to mention that I am using a Spectrun DX5e radio. The control stick I am using is the right hand unit that centers itself. Is there anything I can do? Will swapping the motors from one side to the other make a diffeence?

Thanks again for all of your help.

One other thing. There seems to be way more power than with the old speed controllers.
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