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Handling resin parts?
Topic Started: Aug 14 2011, 09:18 AM (721 Views)
Legionnaire
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Wasteland Warrior
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May seem a daft query, but I've never had anything to do with resin before. Still am quite new to all this miniature stuff. Anyways, I'm expecting delivery (sound like a father now do I? :lol: ) of this sweet mama http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/nova-rus-bear-4x4-jeep.html, and want to make the best of it.

From what I've read up on the internet you should "wash the parts thoroughly in a detergent solution", but for how long? Overnight? a quick dip and scrub?

Fitting the parts then, superglue is apparently the best stuff, but do I HAVE to drill? Haven't got the equipment.

How "hard" is that stuff, seems to me you need a small toolbox with clippers, saw, drills etc just to prepare it for wash and assembly. Got a sharp hobbyknife and that's about it.
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Ross
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Wasteland Warlord
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I usually just give them a good scrub with a nail brush (like, for fingernails) in hot water with a little dish washing detergent, then wash again and rub down with just hot water.

Super glue works a treat (but I use that on everything).

Very very fine sandpaper/file for those "hairs" that sometimes get cast with the model.

Pinning's recommended, but some models I have, some I haven't, and I've not had any troubles either way.

That's my two cents, but I haven't had a great deal to do with resin (about half a dozen models) and mine don't cop alot of handling as I rarely play so that might change things.
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mattblackgod
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Big boss warlord dude!
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Like Ross I only have a handful of resin models. I rarely wash or clean them up. I am just lazy though. I should really.

A scalpel is handy for cleaning flash too. Sometimes you may need to sand a fitting face on a wheel. Superglue usually does the trick. I don't pin but there may be the odd bit that needs it. I have used milliput to fill gaps in models, but as I have had to do that with GW kits it seems to be the norm.

Most of my collection seems to survive gaming.
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Ironblood
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Cannie!
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For all the resin stuff i buy I alwayse give it a good scruba dn leave it overnight in some degreaser probably overkill but it works.
a knife will usually be enough to get you by if its a very good clean casting, if not break out the emery boards and or sandpaper and files.

As has been stated superglue usually works VERY well with resin once you've got it cleaned up. In my experiences it works better on resin than plastics or metals.

I wouldnt worry about pinning anything unless its a small and delicate, or major weight bearing join ( something like 40k titan arms and the like)

I've not bought anyhting from antenocitis workshop, but resin is highly variable depending on urithane, epoxy or polyester and then also quality and additives that are mixed in.

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Legionnaire
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Wasteland Warrior
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Thank you very much lads for the advice, much appreciated. :cheers:
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tikiphantom
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Tribal Savage
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How about painting the resin figures? is anything need to do before?
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mattblackgod
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Big boss warlord dude!
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Same stuff. Wash them before you paint. Take a good look at them. Every now and then you may find a tiny air bubble or two that may need filling.
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tikiphantom
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Tribal Savage
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ah, ok thank you.
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Fantasy Fixtures
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Super Mutant
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Ross nailed the answer, along w/ everyone else. The only thing I would add it that if you are doing a lot of sanding, try not to inhale too much dust. It's especially hard on the airways in enough quantity.
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tikiphantom
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Tribal Savage
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So, the washing will help with the primer paint sticking to the resin, not letting it bleed off?
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mattblackgod
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Big boss warlord dude!
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Yeah there are sometimes coatings on the resin that makes the paint not stick right.
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Chuck Most
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That Guy Over There
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Proper cleanup of resin is essential- even if the parts don't feel 'slimy' before cleaning. Most casters use a silicon-based mold release, to make pulling the cast part from the mold easier. That's why some parts feel slimy when you take them out of the package, but I clean all my resin parts no matter how they feel. And they should be cleaned before any sanding/filing is done, otherwise the mold release may end up on the sandpaper/file/etc. This could contaminate other parts if you forget and use those on other projects- leaving the mold release on is a great way to ensure paint adhesion problems later on!

Also- don't put the cleaned resin part back in its original plastic pouch, as there will more than likely be some mold release residue inside the bag. Place it in a fresh baggie if you aren't going to work with it straight away.

What I like to do is let the resin soak in Wesley's Bleche Wite, a tire cleaner available at most auto parts stores and retail stores. My method is to let them soak overnight (or a couple hours at the minimum), then take them out (wear gloves- as Bleech Wite can burn, especially if you have sensitive skin) and give them a good scrub in hot, soapy water. A old toothbrush or a nylon car interior detailing brush works well for this. I then rinse them and then put them back in the Bleech Wite for another soak, repeat the scrub/rinse, then dry them with a microfiber towel. The second soak/scrub/rinse step I take may be a little anal, but I just like to be sure the part is totally clean! I even scrub and rinse areas of the part that won't show on the completed model, just so I'm sure there isn't any mold release lurking around.

I've had good luck using Duplicolor automotive primer on resin- just let it cure fully (about 36/48 hours) and you should be good to go. Some resins don't 'like' acrylic paints, but once properly primed, you can use any paint you want on the part.

Hope this helps!
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Inkwell
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Toenail cutter / Tin can licker
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Nice, Thanks for the tips!Slimy resin sucks! :lol:
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Chuck Most
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That Guy Over There
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Inkwell
Dec 7 2011, 09:33 PM
Nice, Thanks for the tips!Slimy resin sucks! :lol:
Oh, yes.... slimy resin is the stuff nightmares are made of! :jaw:
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tinker
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CEO of "Rat-on-a-Stick" Industries
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I haven't worked any resin pieces yet, but I'll put that tip in my notebook for future use, thanks!
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