Getting into Sculpting

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Getting into Sculpting; 15mm and Green Stuff
Tweet Topic Started: Dec 8 2010, 12:53 PM (1,030 Views)
Golan2072	Dec 8 2010, 12:53 PM Post #1
Cannie! Posts: 743 Group: Members Member #231 Joined: Sep 16, 2010	I'm thinking of trying my hand at some simple sculpting and/or conversion for the 15mm scale. I intend to buy some Green Stuff (or the local equivalent, which is grey or yellow) and a sculpting knife and try sculpting simple things such as maybe a giant serpent, giant worms and so on (later I'll try a giant toad). Once the sculpt is done and hardened, can I prime and paint it directly or are there more steps to be done? Do you have any advice to share with a sculpting newbie such as myself?



dicehead	Dec 8 2010, 01:00 PM Post #2
Mutant Hunter Posts: 1,430 Group: Members Member #83 Joined: May 19, 2009	I don't know much about sculpting except from doing a few simple conversions but once it's hardened you are ok to prime and paint it. If you produce something you'd like duplicated 15mm.co.uk are looking for new sculptors, the deal is you get a few casts of whatever you make and obviously you can buy more. You don't have to pay to get it moulded but they own the rights. Elheim will mould and cast for a fairly low fee so getting multiples of something you make it quite possible these days. Some 15mm sand worms would be nice!



Sykoholic	Dec 8 2010, 02:18 PM Post #3
Village Idiot Posts: 923 Group: Members Member #20 Joined: Aug 4, 2008	The tips I most often see given.... -Lubricate your sculpting tool -Work on one area at a time -Sculpt, don't carve -Always remember to burnish



Golan2072	Dec 8 2010, 03:17 PM Post #4
Cannie! Posts: 743 Group: Members Member #231 Joined: Sep 16, 2010	Thanks for the tips! Regarding 15mm.co.uk, I know about their "amateur" (SHM) range, and once I'll get some experience under my belt I'll definitely send them a few minis (after I'll figure out how to ship them safely from Israel to the UK, that is). With what kind of lubricant should I lubricate my tools? Also, could I use Green Stuff (or whatever epoxy putty I'll get my hands on) to sculpt small terrain and vehicles (say, a sandbag barrier, a guard booth, a small pillbox/bunker, a small truck or a simple car)? Would it be useful for adding details to terrain (say, chimneys/vents/doors/sattellite dishes for buildings or computer terminals for interiors?



tinker	Dec 8 2010, 04:55 PM Post #5
CEO of "Rat-on-a-Stick" Industries Posts: 9,394 Group: Admins Member #11 Joined: Aug 4, 2008	Always good advice to lube the tool... In the U.S. WD40 is used a bit.



Golan2072	Dec 8 2010, 05:06 PM Post #6
Cannie! Posts: 743 Group: Members Member #231 Joined: Sep 16, 2010	Would a normal machine-oil spray fit the bill? Otherwise I'll look for a WD40 locally...



tinker	Dec 8 2010, 05:29 PM Post #7
CEO of "Rat-on-a-Stick" Industries Posts: 9,394 Group: Admins Member #11 Joined: Aug 4, 2008	Banana Tyrant is a sculptor, and has a great line of 28mm figures, PM him and I'm sure he can give you excellent advice! A plus is he is a European so most likely materials he has will be available to you without too many troubles.



Sykoholic	Dec 8 2010, 05:44 PM Post #8
Village Idiot Posts: 923 Group: Members Member #20 Joined: Aug 4, 2008	Vaseline, lip balm, baby oil, vegetable oil, etc... it doesn't have to be anything special or technical. One of the most common lubricates I heard of sculptors using is their own saliva. All you're wanting is something that will keep the putty from sticking to the tool. Green stuff works better for organic shapes with rounded edges. For mechanical shapes with hard edges, Grey or White Stuff (Milliput) is a better choice. Due to it's price, I wouldn't suggest epoxy putty for making terrain except for small detail pieces. I would go with standard air-drying clay instead. Quote: Always good advice to lube the tool... Get your mind out of the gutter, Tink. Its blocking my view. Edited by Sykoholic, Dec 8 2010, 06:05 PM.



Golan2072	Dec 8 2010, 06:09 PM Post #9
Cannie! Posts: 743 Group: Members Member #231 Joined: Sep 16, 2010	Thanks for the advice!



Batko	Dec 8 2010, 06:45 PM Post #10
Loopy as a Clock-Work Orange Posts: 108 Group: Members Member #244 Joined: Dec 6, 2010	Unless you ate something nasty prior to sculpting, saliva would work as lube.



tinker	Dec 8 2010, 07:08 PM Post #11
CEO of "Rat-on-a-Stick" Industries Posts: 9,394 Group: Admins Member #11 Joined: Aug 4, 2008	Sykoholic Dec 8 2010, 05:44 PM Get your mind out of the gutter, Tink. Its blocking my view. There's always room in the gutter this is the Wastelands!



mattblackgod	Dec 12 2010, 11:36 AM Post #12
Big boss warlord dude! Posts: 15,699 Group: Admins Member #1 Joined: Jul 22, 2008	Nowt wrong with a bit of guttering!



Sykoholic	Dec 12 2010, 05:20 PM Post #13
Village Idiot Posts: 923 Group: Members Member #20 Joined: Aug 4, 2008	There is a rather good sculpting tutorial at Matakishi's that you might find helpful. Matakishi's Tea House - Scultping Things Be warned, there IS some nudity... both male and female.



Dimitri	Dec 13 2010, 12:38 AM Post #14
Kriegjagdhund Posts: 879 Group: Members Member #69 Joined: Feb 26, 2009	One thing to remember if you use oil/grease to lube your tools: clean it off the gs/putty after it's set, otherwise any more you add won't stick.



Golan2072	Dec 13 2010, 08:34 AM Post #15
Cannie! Posts: 743 Group: Members Member #231 Joined: Sep 16, 2010	Thanks for the tip



Banana Tyrant	Dec 17 2010, 09:17 PM Post #16
Super Mutant Posts: 341 Group: Members Member #106 Joined: Sep 19, 2009	Everyone has already given the most useful advice to get started. Just something about <cough> tool lubricating... Saliva is by far the easiest way to go, on more than one account. Just remember greenstuff is chemical and it may not be very healthy to lick that thing - so lick the clean tool... At own risk. Water works too; possibly better for small scale stuff as it gives you better visibility on what you're doing that thicker, errr, fluids. Ah, also, keep you putty fresh: avoid contact with air by keeping it in its plastic wrap when unused, store it in your fridge. Mix it well - if you feel it's a pain to mix, it's going to be a pain to work with, so put the mixed bit to the bin, and cut another bit and see if it's fresher. If you use the blue/yellow ribbons, take the junction away as it may have started to mix/set a little and do small hard grain in your freshly mixed putty. Good luck!



Golan2072	Dec 19 2010, 02:49 PM Post #17
Cannie! Posts: 743 Group: Members Member #231 Joined: Sep 16, 2010	Thanks for the tips!



Golan2072	Dec 24 2010, 10:11 AM Post #18
Cannie! Posts: 743 Group: Members Member #231 Joined: Sep 16, 2010	I've received my first set of sculpting putty and sculpting tools yesterday: Uploaded with ImageShack.us



Inkwell	Dec 24 2010, 02:18 PM Post #19
Toenail cutter / Tin can licker Posts: 3,113 Group: Members Member #247 Joined: Dec 18, 2010	You can try clay shapers ,like a brush but with a hard rubber tip.They sell them at art stores,green stuff dosn't adhere well to it,and they come in a variety of shapes.Lubricate of course,and have fun!



dogmrian	Dec 25 2010, 11:28 PM Post #20
wastleland bard Posts: 542 Group: Members Member #84 Joined: May 31, 2009	here is a website that is really helpful for sculpting sorry here it is http://www.stormthecastle.com/miniatures/how-to-sculpt-fantasy-miniatures-1.htm Edited by dogmrian, Dec 28 2010, 12:46 AM.



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