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| Painting Erosion, Corrosion and Rust; Looking for Tutorials | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Sep 18 2010, 08:29 AM (1,227 Views) | |
| Golan2072 | Sep 18 2010, 08:29 AM Post #1 |
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Cannie!
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As I'll be using most of my terrain for either PA gaming or PA-ish sci-fi gaming, I'd like it to appear a bit battered and old; concrete buildings would be subjected to erosion, and metal fittings (as well as vehicles) would be subjected to rust. The thing is that so far, all of my painting was of relatively 'new'-looking minis; I don't know yet how to apply rust and corrosion effects by painting. I'm using hobby-store acrylics but I can mix almost any color out of them (such as steel of brass). Help would be appreciated. |
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| Hollander | Sep 18 2010, 10:05 AM Post #2 |
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Wasteland Warrior
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There are several techniques I'describe what I do. other use a technique involving masking with salt but I'v never used that so I will leave that to them to describe. 1st you might wish to do some damage to your model. Scratch the paint, bend fenders, drill small "bullet"holes etc. Apply this damage where it looks natural. Shots will probably be aimed at a driver, gunner or the the engine block or wheels. Glass in headlights is vulnerable etc. Look at pictures of rusty cars, vehicles in the desert etc. the net is full of them. Yoy will see rust is most likely to start along edges and damage. So after I done damage (or not your choice) I use a small brush and silvery metal to paint small fresh metal damage. The edge of bulletholes, streaks coming from wheelhubs, freas scratches (real or justed painted on) also notice that flat area's where a people stand or walk on, or where the ammo box get shoved around will lose paint and often show bare metal where paint was. Then use a rust color and go over the model again to paint older damage. Rust may be apllied a bit thicker as rust tends to swell. Then I'll aplly several washes. Simple multi layered washes of watered down sand/grey/rust/black whatever color you like can have a great effect. just dillute the color of your choice wth water and apply it with a thick sof brush top to bottom working down. Allow the watery wash to flow all over the model settling in scratches, dents and corners. Leave it to dry the acryilic will settle in a very natural way. large flat areas will be dulled You can apply extra layers of wash after the previous one has dried fully. The order I aplly them is : Black = Oil, grease. Reddish = rust Sand/grey = dust. You can of course decide not to a aplly a certain color. jus experiment to get the effect you want. This car was dusted with several layers of sand colored wash. you can see how it settled around the corners. Dust washes like these are always the last layer (before sealing the model with a clear varnish). A simple wash in the same color also helps to unify the look of your gang. ![]() On the green car to the left you can see I missed a spot with the wash. but shows the colors before and after the wash very well The same techniques can be applied to buildings. Very obvious but often overlooked Rust and dirt have a tendency to be washed out and flow down from damaged parts in walls windows etc so always aplly to down starting from the damage and draw your brush towards the lowest point as water would flow. and use a dust color that matches the base "earth" tone of your gaming table. Use grey/brown for urban good luck, hope this helps Edited by Hollander, Sep 18 2010, 10:14 AM.
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| Ross | Sep 18 2010, 11:12 AM Post #3 |
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Wasteland Warlord
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Great tips Hollander
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| Golan2072 | Sep 18 2010, 11:25 AM Post #4 |
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Cannie!
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Thanks for the excellent tips, Hollander!
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| Hollander | Sep 18 2010, 12:47 PM Post #5 |
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Wasteland Warrior
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If we stop sharing tips and inspiration we might as well close this forum. |
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| Dentatus | Sep 18 2010, 02:42 PM Post #6 |
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Coldheart
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There's an excellent tutorial over at TerraGenesis. Scary good. http://www.terragenesis.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6639 Worthy standard to shoot for, but I imagine the learning curve is steep. |
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| Carrakon | Sep 18 2010, 06:07 PM Post #7 |
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Raider
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For my vehicles I use one of two techniques. For both undercoat the model in black, then give it a heavy drybrush in silver followed by a drybrush with a rusty color. a) After the above, apply the color you want the thing to be. Before it has fully dried, take a piece of foam and rub it over the model in the direction scratches would appear. Then proceed with whatever weathering you want to apply. Here's one of my cars painted with that technique: ![]() b) This one takes a lot more effort, but is definitely worth it. First paint the areas you want to retain the paint with a dark-ish grey (personally I like the grey used for German WWII tanks for that) Make the patern irregular and avoid straight edges. After that paint the actual color over the grey spots, but leave a thin line of the grey visible. For the edges it works very well to speckle the paint on with your brush. Here's one of my cars painted with this technique:
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| tinker | Sep 18 2010, 10:11 PM Post #8 |
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CEO of "Rat-on-a-Stick" Industries
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Red Oxide is a really simple rust and at 15mm ain't too many people going to gripe about it's appearance. |
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| Ross | Sep 18 2010, 11:27 PM Post #9 |
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Wasteland Warlord
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WOW!! That Terragenisis tut is realistic! Problem with that one is you need to paint your models realistic to match. |
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| mattblackgod | Sep 19 2010, 12:19 PM Post #10 |
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Big boss warlord dude!
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Great tips. Keep them coming. If you are in a dusty or dry environment (as most PA settings are) do no forget to lightly drybrush your vehicles and buildings in a light sand or bone white colour. This gives a dusty appearance. With buildings damage will be more likely than actual painting corrosion (such as crumbling stone/rick work), unless you use metal buildings and signs which will be subject to the same techniques as vehicles. Give signs (not printed ones as they will run) a wash in very diluted white paint to make them appear faded. Dry brush grey on to windows to simulate dirt build up. Dont forget to insert lots of plants and vegetation as Nature will claim back places very quickly. |
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| Golan2072 | Sep 19 2010, 03:22 PM Post #11 |
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Cannie!
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My possible PA setting is set in a nuclear winter turning into a lasting ice-age; while the main setting (around Volgograd, AKA Stalingrad) would probably be south enough to be free of snow in the summer, there would be frost damage in the winter and water damage in the spring, summer and autumn (in addition to the War and usual erosion). |
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| mattblackgod | Sep 19 2010, 03:31 PM Post #12 |
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Big boss warlord dude!
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Christmas is coming - it may be worth checking out some icicle decorations. Have a dig around this site: 28 Days later There are lots of inspirational pictures of abandoned buildings in the UK. Also there is quite a few from around Chernobyl and some of the ex-soviet states. You could try lots of dark washes at the lower level of walls or higher up in patches to simulate damp. I was going to say damp patches...but I know what a filthy minded bunch we have lurking on this forum. Edited by mattblackgod, Sep 19 2010, 03:33 PM.
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| Golan2072 | Sep 19 2010, 04:50 PM Post #13 |
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Cannie!
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Thanks for the advice!
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| Rad Blight | Sep 21 2010, 07:34 AM Post #14 |
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Wasteland Warrior
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This might be of some interest. rust |
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| Golan2072 | Sep 21 2010, 08:49 AM Post #15 |
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Cannie!
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Thanks
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