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| Ruins!; Because whole building are boring! | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jun 29 2009, 02:44 AM (4,219 Views) | |
| Benny | Jul 1 2009, 04:01 AM Post #21 |
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Professional Procrastinator
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Us? On topic? ![]() Looking good. The scale thing really bugs me, I prefer things to be a lot closer to true scale. The ruins there would suit nicely for 40mm figures to my eyes. But ignore me, I'm a bit pedantic when it comes to these things lol |
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| RavenFeast | Jul 1 2009, 05:06 AM Post #22 |
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Mutant Hunter
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I did make some one-story, whole buildings with removable roofs, and smaller, more "in scale" windows and doors, but moving the figures around, in and about was difficult, often causing spontaneous terrain reallocation.
Edited by RavenFeast, Jul 1 2009, 05:07 AM.
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| Benny | Jul 2 2009, 01:51 AM Post #23 |
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Professional Procrastinator
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Spontaneous terrain relocation?
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| mattblackgod | Jul 3 2009, 04:26 PM Post #24 |
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Big boss warlord dude!
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Its all looking good. I should get some more ruins built. I need more ruins.
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| Benny | Jul 4 2009, 03:11 AM Post #25 |
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Professional Procrastinator
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Just build some houses and then destroy them. Realistic ruins
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| RavenFeast | Jul 4 2009, 03:17 AM Post #26 |
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Mutant Hunter
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mattblackgod: More terrain = good. freebooter: Yes, but I'm trying to avoid the wasted materials of actually setting off a nuke in my basement. Not that I don't have enough unpainted lead figures to shield myself, mind you, it's just, well, messy. Hmm. Maybe a flamethrower... |
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| RavenFeast | Aug 24 2009, 02:59 AM Post #27 |
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Mutant Hunter
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![]() The second stage was adding surface details like cracks and weapons fire damage as well as adding rubble piles to the inside areas. The trick was not to add so much rubble that it's impossible to place figures within. Went with 5mm foam board sliced in half and glued to the floors. Looks okay. Not great, but it'll do. After the detailing is done, all exposed foam was coated with a layer of PVA/white glue, as the building will be sprayed with black primer. http://ravenfeast.deviantart.com/art/Ruin-Stage-2-134516158 |
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| Chrome_Cat | Aug 24 2009, 03:53 AM Post #28 |
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Merc
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Damn right it'll do! Good idea with the flat sheets to make the rubble and cracked flooring. It's a pet peev of mine to have terrain that figures just won't stand up on. These will look excellent painted. Please do hurry up with the next stage so i have more ideas to steal.
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| Radroamer | Aug 24 2009, 08:18 AM Post #29 |
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The Rock n Rolla
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That does look really good ravenfeast, that is going to be an amazing group of ruins when they are finished! |
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| Schrodinger's Cat | Aug 24 2009, 01:42 PM Post #30 |
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Kitty Kat
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Really nice! I should really work on some Post Apoc Terrain. All I have is Trees.... and a odd "gate like" structure.. |
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| RavenFeast | Aug 25 2009, 01:13 AM Post #31 |
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Mutant Hunter
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![]() Stage 3 – After the black spray primer dries COMPLETELY, you’re ready for the next stage: GLOP. Glop is a 3:1 mix of acrylic craft paint and “wall texture” powder which can be found at bigger DIY stores.* Change the ratio to your personal preference. I use 3:1 for ruins of ancient structures, 5:1 for modern and maintained concrete structures. Glop is thick enough to hide minor imperfections like pin holes and mis-cuts. You may want to use 6:1 if you’re modeling a scale much smaller than 28mm/O Scale. Mix up some glop of the desired color. In this case, it’s neutral gray. Apply the first coat of glop over the entire structure. Make sure you cover all the foam edges like where windows and doorways were cut out of the foamcore. While that’s still wet, apply a second coat with a dabbing, jabbing or stabbing motion; using just the tips of the bristles. This will destroy the brush, so use the 1” cheap brushes found, again, at DIY stores. Buy several while you’re there; cheapest in bulk bags. Don’t be afraid of using more glop than you judge necessary, as, when it dries, the surface texture will be a lot less dramatic. After the glop has dried COMPLETELY, give the structure a once-over to see if there were any glaringly obvious spots missed. It happens. And, thanks to the black spray primer, if you miss a really small spot it looks like a shadowy pit or hole. * Wall Texture (a.k.a. paint texture) comes in a few forms. You want the fine, light-gray powder, not the foam pellets. Buy the 15 lbs. bag; it’ll last you a life time. Just don’t sell it in little zip-lock bags to your mates at the club, as the local constabulary may not understand. While you’re out shopping, get a cheap, wire whisk and a medium-sized, washable plastic bowl from a dollar store to mix the wall texture powder into the paint. http://ravenfeast.deviantart.com/art/Ruin-Stage-3-134629730 Gotta go: Top Gear is on! |
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| Chrome_Cat | Aug 25 2009, 03:36 AM Post #32 |
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Merc
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Glop! Righty-o. Sounds very easy and quick for good results. I used to use the fine wall texture plaster to coat foam and other stuff, but it was rather time consuming. Great tip. |
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| Ross | Aug 28 2009, 12:28 AM Post #33 |
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Wasteland Warlord
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While it looks good so far, it does (to me, so this is highly subjective) need more debris and broken rubble. |
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| RavenFeast | Aug 28 2009, 12:42 AM Post #34 |
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Mutant Hunter
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I'm hoping the drybrushing will make it look a bit more cluttered without making it a pain to move figures around. Also I'm a lazy, cheap hedonist. YMMV
Edited by RavenFeast, Aug 28 2009, 12:47 AM.
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| RavenFeast | Aug 28 2009, 12:46 AM Post #35 |
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Mutant Hunter
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And, on the subject of drybrushing...![]() http://ravenfeast.deviantart.com/art/Ruin-Stage-4-134981315 Stage 4 - Once the glop is COMPLETELY dry, it’s time to apply a highlight on the bumps and ridges across the surface of the structure. Drybrushing is a technique to do just that. Find a completely dry brush you don’t mind trashing, as drybrushing will cause damage to the bristles. If you are in the habit of moistening your bristles before using them to paint: DON’T. Use a lighter shade of paint than the glop. Get a small amount on the brush and then wipe most of the paint off the bristles. Gently pass the brush over the surface of the structure. You’ll notice the lighter paint only taking to small spots or areas; this the surface detail left by the dry glop. Continue to apply in this manner, but do it from different directions. Experiment on the underside of floors to get the feel of the brush stroke before trying it on a wall. It takes a bit of effort to not cover everything, but the result can be worth it. The drybrushing should not take long to dry. Finish the terrain with a clear spray sealer to protect the paint. Done. Favorite building so far... ![]() Seven done, nine to go. Edited by RavenFeast, Aug 28 2009, 12:48 AM.
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| Ross | Aug 28 2009, 12:57 AM Post #36 |
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Wasteland Warlord
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You're right, it does add a lot more depth and texture to it. |
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| mattblackgod | Aug 28 2009, 01:30 PM Post #37 |
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Big boss warlord dude!
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Yeah, it looks great. Nice work. |
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| Ninjamonkey73 | Aug 28 2009, 06:55 PM Post #38 |
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Raider
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Those are bad-ass! |
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| RavenFeast | Aug 30 2009, 04:11 AM Post #39 |
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Mutant Hunter
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Thank you, all! The individual steps are easy, but making a small, ruined city is time consuming. They should be done in time for a Halloween game. Maybe even for this year's. I'm refraining from posters and graffiti so they can be used from VSF/steampunk through SciFi/Post Apocalyptic. Edited by RavenFeast, Aug 30 2009, 04:12 AM.
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| Just Another Raider | Sep 1 2009, 01:50 AM Post #40 |
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Raider King
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Wait! Theres no ladder! How am i supposed to get up to the ledge?! |
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Please do hurry up with the next stage so i have more ideas to steal.




5:37 PM Jul 13