| Speculative biology is simultaneously a science and form of art in which one speculates on the possibilities of life and evolution. What could the world look like if dinosaurs had never gone extinct? What could alien lifeforms look like? What kinds of plants and animals might exist in the far future? These questions and more are tackled by speculative biologists, and the Speculative Evolution welcomes all relevant ideas, inquiries, and world-building projects alike. With a member base comprising users from across the world, our community is the largest and longest-running place of gathering for speculative biologists on the web. While unregistered users are able to browse the forum on a basic level, registering an account provides additional forum access not visible to guests as well as the ability to join in discussions and contribute yourself! Registration is free and instantaneous. Join our community today! |
| A Guide to the Care of Speculative Lifeforms in Captivity; A comprehensive listing of the captive management and husbandry of speculative plants and animals. | |
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| Topic Started: Dec 5 2017, 02:45 AM (2,685 Views) | |
| TerrificTyler | Dec 7 2017, 09:39 PM Post #16 |
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Snazz God
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Orucu Fantler (Rostostendus Diplondus) ![]() Image courtsey of The Australia Grand Reptile Zoo Visitor Center General Overview: Orucu Fantlers are a species hailing from roughly 525 million years in the future. They belong to a derived line of turtles, and are one of the largest, at 6 feet tall and weighing 1.5 tons. Their skin is thick and leathery, similar to that of an elephant or rhino. Their upper face is covered in an enormous keratinous plate, which also serves as a crest for display. It extends a foot from the skull, and is a deep yellow, with the exception of a brown splotch in the middle. Their body is built differently than turtles of the current day, having the legs oriented more under the body. They are both grazers and browsers, using their elongated neck to aid in collecting food. Ambient Environment: Orucu Fantlers are already capable of surviving fine in Earth's atmosphere. Fantlers do best in warmer climates, due to their metabolism and lack of fur. However, they have been successfully kept indoors during winter in areas with colder weather. Typically, temperatures of around 75 degrees Fahrenheit have worked best, since it comes from a tropical area. A dry environment is typically best, as their native environment was similar and experienced regular droughts. They may have trouble adjusting to Earth's current day cycle, as they are used to a 25-hour day (Due to coming from a time with a slower rotation of the Earth). Habitat Design and Containment Requirements: Fantlers typically need open environments, as they are accustomed to moving vast distances in a day. At the least, a few acres is used in their exhibit. The ground should typically be dirt, and not too rough so that their feet end up discomforted. Most zoos containing Fantlers typically design their exhibits with stone or concrete barriers, due to their high strength. Moats have proven effective for providing a safe barriers between guests and the beasts, or building the exhibit at a lower elevation. Typically, zoos will add shade spots, either by including trees or rock outcroppings. A pool full of water, while not required, has been implemented to much success. This is especially true for areas which experience heavy heat waves, as they have been known to partially submerge themselves to cool down. Some exhibits may contain a mud pit if not a pool. Small stones and pebbles should be scattered around their habitat, to aid in their gizzard-like digestion. Indoor environments should be similar in make to those used by rhinos or elephants in colder climates. The floor should be lined with a soft material like straw. Social Environment: Orucu Fantlers will contently live alone, or in small groups. Being alone or in a group will not affect the Fantler's behavior in any way. However, it is strongly advised that 2 or more males not be housed in the same exhibit, as the 2 fantlers will almost always fight and tussel with one another, which will eventually result in injuring one another. They have been successfully integrated into multispecies exhibits multiple times, coexisting well with emus, antelope, deer, and other medium-sized herbivores. An interesting case of social interaction was Luruk, was adopted by a herd of kudu. He would end up living with the herd for the entirety of his life. Reproduction: Breeding Fantlers has proven difficult, as specimens in captivity have proven to be reluctant to copulate. When pairs do mate, it is important that the pair be separated afterwards, as they have shown to be aggressive towards one another. The female will then proceed to lay roughly 35 eggs. The young are typically then cared for by the zoo, due to the parent disregarding the eggs from then on. Dietary Needs: Orucu Fantlers have been known to graze, browse and forage on any plants available in their enclosure, typically down to the root. They will go for grass, leaves, bushes, and anything else their beaks can bite on. They can strip entire portions of trees down in a day. They will spend most of their day foraging, and the rest will be spent resting and digesting it. Often times, zoos will add chopped fruits and vegetables. They will also use their extremely potent beak to snap twigs off trees, and peel bark. Also, their diet will occasionally be supplemented with eggs or a hunk of raw beef. Typically they will end up consuming 100-200 pounds of food a day, depending on age. Younger individuals must be fed a different diet, with more meat supplemented in, as well as crickets, and other arthropods. Veterinary Care: Diseases typically aren't a huge risk for Fantlers. Captive species in colder climates can be prone to arthritis, due to their less open conditions in winter. Claws should be kept trimmed, and because of their visible skin, they can be susceptible to parasites like ticks. The skin should also be checked for any bruises or signs of injure, as they have been known to engage in destructive behavior. Additionally, if their beak isn't worn down sufficiently, then it is to be filed until it is deemed fit. Behavioral Management: Due to the creature's low intelligence, little to no training is normally done on them. Typically, it will only go as far being able to tolerate health checks. Caretakers have been known to add a tire or ball on rope to help add enrichment to their lives. An ordinary Fantler under zoo care isn't a large threat, though any keepers caring for it have been advised to be watchful for the beak or any signs of aggression. Wild Fantlers recently put in captivity need more watch, as they have been known to charge at keepers. Additional Information: While it has not been considered wise, several people have managed to keep a Orucu Fantler as a pet, most of them being wealthy and having money for it. |
![]() The Time Bubble- A universe-sized terrarium My Deviantart Wkhuh duh rqob wzr jhqghuv | |
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| Sheather | Dec 8 2017, 01:43 AM Post #17 |
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Manguar Nocturviscerus iugulous ![]() General Overview: The manguar is a large and reasonably intelligent tiger-like arboreal carnivore native to the southern rainforests of Sheatheria, where it operates as an unrivaled apex predator. They are the largest of a group of near-mammal therapsids known as therognaths and can weigh up to 450 pounds. They are naturally specialized to climbing the massive trees of their natural habitat, where they ambush large mammals and ornithopods walking along the ground below, and exhibit very long, recurved claws, muscular prehensile tails that can support much of their weight, and ankles that can rotate backwards to allow easy descent down tree trunks. They have differentiated carnivoran-like cheek teeth adapted to shear flesh and powerful jaws for crushing bone, but their most notable trait is their wicked front canines and incisors, adapted into forward-projected slicing blades. The method of the manguar to kill is savage; to disable its prey, it first grips the victim with the front talons and then repeatedly slashes at the head and neck with the teeth while kicking with the hind claws to eviscerate it. The manguar, unsurprisingly, is thus an impressive, formidable animal that is both very desirable for zoo exhibition but also potentially very dangerous if strict safety protocol is not followed. Ambient Environment: Like the bahmu, the manguar is a native to hot, humid jungles and is predominately nocturnal. However, it is much more adaptable to captive conditions and can adapt well to temperatures below freezing if acclimated and allowed access to a climate-controlled indoor shelter in cold weather. The manguar is predominately nocturnal in the wild but can be persuaded to be active during the day as well if this is when food is provided. Manguar have no enemies in the wild and are not shy; they are thus not usually bothered by ambient noise or the presence of zoo patrons, though they should have the opportunity to retire to a closed off den at all times if they wish. Habitat Design and Containment Requirements: Due to its size, the manguar does best exhibited outdoors, but as the species is so well-adapted for climbing great measures must be taken to secure them. A manguar requires a reasonably large yard like would be suited to a tiger, ideally composed at least partly of soft soil and grass, which is either fully enclosed with a lattice of bars made of stainless steel or iron or surrounded on all sides by either steel or plexiglass walls at least thirty feet in height - concrete is not recommended, as it can provide enough purchase to allow the animal to climb to freedom. Because of this, moats are also not considered secure barriers for this species, which has been shown to leap upwards of thirty feet in the wild. The enclosure should feature varied topography, including cliffs and hills, and most importantly a variety of platforms and logs, as this species is naturally arboreal. Fallen trees, piles of timber and artificial climbing trees are vital for climbing and scratching. Manguars will spend most of their time during the day lounging leisurely at the highest point in their enclosure, so it is important to position platforms in places that are easily visible to guests. Despite their size, you will normally find the species will prefer the thinnest perches both to travel across and to rest, choosing to balance and lay across beams just a few inches across versus sturdier ledges, mirroring their natural habitat of tree branches. Large logs on chains are especially appreciated, as they swing as they're walked upon, mimicing the swaying of the high canopy. Manguars require warm indoor quarters in winter; it is imperative that the indoor housing be designed so that all doors can be operated with caretakers securely separated from their charges. Manguar are easily trained to shift indoors and outdoors with food bribery. Social Environment: Manguar are solitary in the wild and have little in the way of lasting social bonds. However, some zoos successful keep pairs together in captivity without issue, and this can work if siblings are raised together. One male with one female is the most successful combination - same-sex individuals are apt to fight. All exhibitions involving two animals require close supervision, as tempers can flare without much warning and once engaged two fighting specimens are very impossible to break apart; manguars have killed one another in captivity. Manguar should always be separated from zookeepers by a secure barrier of small mesh to prevent injury as they naturally view humans as prey and will kill them without a second thought if ever given the opportunity. Predator instincts appear early and manguars as young as five months can deliver debilitating injuries to a human. Hand-rearing is possible with this species, but manguars don't readily stay tame. Contact should be removed after weaning age (two to three months), when the cubs get their first set of teeth, to avoid serious injuries as they mature. Reproduction: Relatively easy in captivity. Female manguar come into heat once a year and become extremely restless and vocal during this time, screaming through the night to attract a male. If introduced whilst in her estrus period, the male is almost always accepted and courtship is surprisingly gentle; her heat cycle lasts three to five days, during which time the pair groom each other and mate around the clock. When she is no longer receptive, she may become increasingly intolerant of the male and try to drive him off or the pair may remain amicable, depending on the individual. If the pair seem to remain bonded, it may be safe to leave them together until the female approaches parturition. The male must always be isolated before the birth of the cubs, as they have been known to cannibalize unprotected young of their species in the wild. The mother should be provided a secure, dark den in which to give birth, away from any human presence. Most manguar are good mothers and will nurse their young for up to six month, though they can begin to eat solid foods and begin leaving the nest after six weeks. The mother brings food back to the den and in the wild teaches her young to hunt by bringing back disabled live prey, though this is rarely permitted in a zoo setting. The young can safely be separated from their mothers at six months, when the female is likely to go into heat again. However, mothers will often tolerate their young for longer, until the birth of the second litter or, if she is not bred again, until they reach sexual maturity at three to four years old. Dietary Needs: Strict carnivore, manguars do not consume any plant food in the wild or normally in captivity and have a very short digestive tract adapted to a flesh diet. A diet of various whole prey is ideal, particularly red meats such as beef and lamb which most closely match the nutritional balance of the large theropodents they favor as prey in the wild. Poultry can be fed in smaller quantities and is similar in nutrition to the smaller griffons which manguar will also take when it can catch them. Fish should not be fed as a regular part of the diet - it is an unnatural food source and can result in an imbalance of vital amino acids if fed excessively. Raw bones are important in the diet for calcium and to keep the teeth in good condition. Veterinary Care: Manguar are prone to tooth problems if fed an overly soft diet - chewing bones is important to remove plaque that can otherwise build up, providing a breeding ground for bacteria that can cause tooth decay. Some manguars also develop unhealthy habits of chewing on the cage bars, which can destroy their teeth, usually if lacking in other enrichment. Once established this habit is hard to break and may require the redesign of the enclosure to feature plexiglass or solid steel walls that it cannot get its jaws around. Some individuals develop ingrown claws, which can only be dealt with under anesthesia, but the manguar is otherwise most often healthy and easily maintained in captivity. Behavioral Management: Manguars are intelligent enough to require enrichment, such as balls, chew toys, and climbing gyms in addition to varied routines and diets or they are prone to behavioral problems and repetitive behaviors, particularly bar-chewing and stereotyped pacing along walls and fences. Enclosures should be large enough to allow for the expression of natural climbing behavior. This species is trainable and quickly learns shifting routines to move between enclosures. They are highly food-motivated and will literally leap through hoops for small cubes of beef fat or chicken livers. Additional Information: Large, fierce, and impressive, but most of all relatively easy to care for and breed in our modern zoos, the manguar is very popular in captivity. Though potentially very dangerous, if precautions are made and exhibits designed securely, the manguar is a reliable and crowd-pleasing addition to any zoological collection. |
![]() The Gaiaverse | Eden | Terra Metropolis | Life of the Sylvan Islands | Other Spec Evo | Sheatheria | Serina | The Last Dinosaur A Wholesome and Good Thing | Sam | | |
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| WaterWitch | Dec 8 2017, 02:07 AM Post #18 |
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Might manage to hold down a project some day
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Is there any exceptions to this rule, like say if we wanted to do something from Dixon or Barlowe's works. |
Current Projects
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| GlarnBoudin | Dec 8 2017, 10:12 AM Post #19 |
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Disgusting Skin Fetishist
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I did get permission from a friend of mine to use his creatures. |
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Quotes Spoiler: click to toggle Co-creator/corporate minion for the Pop Culture Monster Apocalypse! My Projects Spoiler: click to toggle Coming Soon Spoiler: click to toggle My dA page. My Fanfiction.net page. | |
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| Sheather | Dec 8 2017, 01:37 PM Post #20 |
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Only if you managed to receive written permission. |
![]() The Gaiaverse | Eden | Terra Metropolis | Life of the Sylvan Islands | Other Spec Evo | Sheatheria | Serina | The Last Dinosaur A Wholesome and Good Thing | Sam | | |
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| IIGSY | Dec 8 2017, 04:00 PM Post #21 |
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A huntsman spider that wastes time on the internet because it has nothing better to do
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Good work as always. Something I like about this is writing out these care sheets always us to flesh out our creatures at little more. |
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Projects Punga: A terraformed world with no vertebrates Last one crawling: The last arthropod ARTH-6810: A world without vertebrates (It's ded, but you can still read I guess) Potential ideas- Swamp world: A world covered in lakes, with the largest being caspian sized. Nematozoic: After a mass extinction of ultimate proportions, a single species of nematode is the only surviving animal. Tri-devonian: A devonian like ecosystem with holocene species on three different continents. Quotes Phylogeny of the arthropods and some related groups In honor of the greatest clade of all time More pictures Other cool things All African countries can fit into Brazil
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| peashyjah | Dec 8 2017, 06:23 PM Post #22 |
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Bydo
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Yeah. You need to be more reasonable about the creatures and their place in the wild. |
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Discontinued projects: The New Ostracoderms (i might continue with this project again someday) The Americas (where in 58 million years from now in the future North and South America has both become isolated island continents) All Expansions (my attempt at expanding the universe of All Tomorrows by Nemo Ramjet aka C.M. Kosemen, started June 6, 2018) Anthropozoic (my attempt at expanding the universe of Man After Man and also a re-imagining of it, coming 2019 or 2020) New Cenozoica (my attempt at expanding the universe of The New Dinosaurs and also a re-imagining of it, also coming 2019 or 2020) All Alternatives or All Changes (a re-telling of All Tomorrows but with some minor and major "changes", coming June 10, 2018) | |
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| Archeoraptor | Dec 16 2017, 12:30 PM Post #23 |
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"A living paradox"
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thinking of some ideas |
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Astarte an alt eocene world,now on long hiatus but you never know Fanauraa; The rebirth of Aotearoa future evo set in new zealand after a mass extinction coming soon......a world that was seeded with earth´s weridest and who knows what is coming next........... " I have to know what the world will be looking throw a future beyond us I have to know what could have been if fate acted in another way I have to know what lies on the unknown universe I have to know that the laws of thee universe can be broken throw The Spec I gain strength to the inner peace the is not good of evil only nature and change,the evolution of all livings beings" " Spoiler: click to toggle | |
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| Troll Man | Dec 17 2017, 04:22 AM Post #24 |
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pretend this says something funny
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Devil's Fingers Diablovirga ostrinus ![]() General Overview: Medium-sized fungus species, only grows naturally in one cave system, in a region of Southwest China. The fruiting body is roughly shaped like a prolate spheroid, purple or magenta in colour, and grows in bunches, the largest perhaps reaching just over a foot in height. The mushrooms are bioluminescent, and the tips glow a bright pink under darkness; the hyphae may occasionally glow a dimmer shade, but this is less apparent. The outer surface of the mushrooms are hard-shelled, but the inside is spongy, hollow. and filled with soft, porous chambers. The subsurface mycelium structure is normally quite intensive, and may stretch for some metres outward and downward; a single fungus therefore may have numerous mushrooms blooming at any time. Ambient Environment: The fungus prefers a high moisture level in both soil and air. Soil in its natural environment is naturally alkaline, and as the species is subterranean, it requires no sunlight in order to grow. The fungus is able to grow on almost any surface, although it grows more quickly in soil and has difficulty surviving in heavily inundated areas. Cultivation: The devil's fingers fungus is remarkably easy to grow under artificial conditions, as specialized endosymbiotic bacteria in its hyphae allow it to break-down and utilize almost all material as sustenance, including certain minerals and polystyrene. Although microscopically thin, the hyphae spread almost animal-like in their growth, and will quickly expand to fill all available volume and possible surfaces within a few hours. To propagate the fungus is very simple; simply lift some soil from the growing environment of the devil's fingers and replace somewhere else; over the course of a few days, a new budding mushroom will almost certainly become apparent. Frequent watering is advised, as the hyphae dry out easily, once or twice per day is recommended. To best observe the intriguing growth of the fungus, ornamental rocks or other structures can be placed with the flora; over the course of several weeks, the fungus will likely begin sprouting mushrooms over most given objects. Soil should be replaced every few months; a moist compost and sand mix is a good substitute to its natural environment. The fungus is able to tolerate a wide temperature range, and remains healthy between thirty and sixteen degrees Celsius, but will grow stunted or die significantly outside this range. Additional Information: The devil's finger fungus grows extremely quickly in response to its high grazing rate in its natural environment; as there are very few organisms outside of its environment adapted to consuming the mushrooms or mycelium, this growth can become destructive if unregulated. Frequent pruning is necessary to prevent overgrowth; removed portions should be properly disposed of through incineration or chemical fungicide treatments to sterilize any possible fungal cells (this includes all soil and objects that have been touched by the fungus for more than an hour). The mushrooms should similarly be clipped and disposed about two or three weeks after budding, because at roughly four weeks, the fruiting body splits open and releases its spores. In a well-ventilated and open area, this can spread the fungus great distances, making containment considerable more difficult. The spores are also mildly toxic should they be inhaled, but only in large concentrations does it affect human health. As precaution, devil's fingers should be kept in a sealed or semi-sealed environment with double-layered fine air filters to prevent spores from leaking out; it should never be grown outside. Any clothing or equipment that comes into contact with the soil or spores should be properly disposed of. The fungus should not be kept with any other species, as the fungus will attempt to overtake and consume all other flora species, and may incidentally trap and decompose small animals (recent studies suggest the species may be protocarnivorous); flora species native to the same region as the devil's finger will usually compete with the fungus. Public or commercial cultivation of devil's finger is prohibited due to the ease in which the fungus is able to consume and grow on any and all available surfaces, and as a result, it has a high chance of becoming a dangerous invasive species. Only certain educational or research facilities/exhibitions are licensed to cultivate this fungus species. The inside of the mushrooms are edible, although their taste is often described as bitter and unsavoury, with the flavour likened by some to 'muted, rotting fish' or 'mouldy aged cheese'. Additional Photos: ![]() In its natural habitat, the devil's fingers fungus is a regular dietary staple for a wide variety of grazers, which keeps its growth in check. |
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Isla del Mundo Perdido! Diyu! R'lyeh! --- Also can into [天]. | |
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| CaledonianWarrior96 | Dec 17 2017, 04:58 AM Post #25 |
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An Awesome Reptile
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Considering the time that fungus was taken to the cave entrance of Diyu and spread very aggressively I'd say keeping that as a pet, or whatever you refer to keeping fungi, is a bad idea. Like housing a colony of rats in New Zealand. Great info sheet though, I really should get on in this action |
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Come check out and subscribe to my projects on the following subforums; Future Planet (V.2): the Future Evolution of Life on Earth (Evolutionary Continuum) The Meuse Legacy: An Alternative Outcome of the Mosasaur (Alternative Evolution) Terra Cascus: The Last Refuge of the Dinosaurs (Alternative Evolution) - Official Project - Foundation The Beryoni Galaxy: The Biologically Rich and Politically Complex State of our Galaxy (Habitational Zone) - Beryoni Critique Thread (formerly: Aliens of Beryoni) The Ecology of Skull Island: An Open Project for the Home of King Kong (Alternative Universe) The Ecology of Wakanda: An Open Project for the Home of Marvel's Black Panther (Alternative Universe) (Click bold titles to go to page. To subscribe click on a project, scroll to the bottom of the page and click "track topic" on the bottom right corner) And now, for something completely different
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| IIGSY | Jan 7 2018, 01:19 PM Post #26 |
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A huntsman spider that wastes time on the internet because it has nothing better to do
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Bear spiders Ursaranea General Overview: Bear spiders are a diverse group of wolf spider descendants that live on the terraformed planet Punga. Generally, their outward anatomy does not differ much from the ancestral wolf spider, asside from a few traits convergent with tarantulas. They come in 3 main types; rushdowns, burrowers, and arboreals. Rushdowns are the most plesiomorphic of the three and aren't much more than bulkier wolf spiders. Burrowers are the most tranatula like, having worse eyesight (but still better than tarantulas), longer hairs, and overall largest of the 3 types. Arboreals are the most derived and the only one that makes a monophyletic group. They tend to be smaller on averge, with the smallest bear spider being an aboreal barely larger than a wolf spider (however, most are still considerably larger than the average spider). They also have the most enhanced eyesight of the 3, and many are capable jumpers. Ambient Environment: Most bear spiders are fairly adaptable with regards to temprature and climate, but some burrowers may require high humidity. The difference comes with lighting. Arboreals need good lighting to move and naviagte, as they are mostly visual creatues, as do rushdowns. Burrowers by contrast need very low lighting, as they typically live in dark enviornments. Habitat Design and Containment Requirements: Rushdowns need a large container as they are large and run a lot. They also need some kind of cover like a rock or log to rest under as they are dirunal animals and rest during the night. Rushdowns also require a moderatly deep substrate to move on comfortably. Burrowers need a deep, soft and somewhat moist substrate to build their burrows, as well as a lot of shade in the form of plants and other scenery. They have the smallest space needs out of all 3 types. Arboeals need a comparitvely large enclouser as they are active, climbing animals. They need a lot of plants to climb in order to function. Arboreals need a very secure lid to prevent escapes. The presence of water dishes is a must in all 3 types, however large dishes can be potentially harmful to smaller species. Social Environment: The vast majority of bear spiders are solitary, and will kill one another if forced together. Even mating pairs must spend only as much time as is absolutely necessary. Out of species that are social (usually arboreals), they can be kept in small groups of around 3-5 individuals. Reproduction: Mating is not always successful, as a male and female may kill each other without second thought. If mating is successful, it is important to separate the 2 as soon as possible. Bear spiders usually exhibit some parental care, so leaving the egg sac is safe. For arboreals, spiderlings are to be taken out as soon as they hatch from an egg sac as they become independent the fastest. Rushdown spiderlings are to be taken out as soon as they stop clinging to their mother's abdomen. Burrowers can stay the longest, as the mother actively cares for them for up to a month after hatching. Burrower spiderlings must be removed once they leave their mother's burrow. Mothers in all 3 groups start becoming aggressive towards their young at certain points and will eat them if they don't leave. The exception to all this is with social species that exhibit extended parental care, but young must eventually be separated anyway to prevent overcrowding. Dietary Needs: All bear spiders are obligate carnivores and nearly any small animal will do, from insects to small vertebrates. Veterinary Care: All bear spiders have some parasites, be they mites, nematodes or others. Signs of parasitic infection include abnormal behavior or extended inactivity. Mites can be removed manually, but with nematodes it's usually too late. Though adaptable, the enclosure being too dry or too moist can cause dehydration and fungal infection respectively (with burrowers being the most vulnerable) . Another issue to look out for is molting problems, in which the animal is completely or partially stuck in it's exoskeleton. You can solve this by manually helping out the spider. The best way to deal with all these issues is simply by prevention, keeping your tarantula hydrated and well fed with normal levels of moisture. Arboeals may become injured by falling off a high plant, but this is rare. Behavioral Management: Rushdowns, while not arboreal, still need some plants and rocks to climb over for a more stimulating enviornment. Burrowers need practically no enrichment, as they spend the majority of their lives tucked away in their burrows. Arboreals, in stark contrast, need a lot of high plants, rocks and other items to climb over and (depending on the species) jump between. The temperament of bear spiders varies widely, some are quite docile while other are extremely aggressive, and most bear spiders tend not to have especially potent venom. Still, handling is generally not recommended. Additional Information: Bear spiders have become immensely popular not only in zoos, but has pets. Bear spiders have made a huge presence in invert communities, more so than any other introduced animal. Being featured in all sorts of media, bear spiders are a household name. Man, this thread is too good to die. My new entry felt a little short, but I still like it Edited by IIGSY, Feb 3 2018, 12:42 PM.
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Projects Punga: A terraformed world with no vertebrates Last one crawling: The last arthropod ARTH-6810: A world without vertebrates (It's ded, but you can still read I guess) Potential ideas- Swamp world: A world covered in lakes, with the largest being caspian sized. Nematozoic: After a mass extinction of ultimate proportions, a single species of nematode is the only surviving animal. Tri-devonian: A devonian like ecosystem with holocene species on three different continents. Quotes Phylogeny of the arthropods and some related groups In honor of the greatest clade of all time More pictures Other cool things All African countries can fit into Brazil
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| ZoologicalBotanist | Jan 29 2018, 04:46 PM Post #27 |
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Mixotrophic Sea Slug
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Golden Shiner Shimmerus Aurum General Overview: The golden shiner has the outward appearance of a fish, specifically one of the catfish family. Fully mature individuals can reach lengths of up to one and a half feet. They have thick, gold scales, and sensitive barbels surrounding their mouth. Golden shiners have muscular, spiny pectoral fins that are used for locomotion. They are poor swimmers, and must use their fins to crawl across the seafloor. Their barbels are used to sense shellfish buried in the sediment, which are then dug up and consumed. Individuals are usually solitary, but will peacefully co-exist with other individuals of their species and other species. The golden shiner has no specific sleeping pattern and lives in burrows. Ambient Environment: Golden shiners are a saltwater species. Although pure saltwater is acceptable, it is best to use saltwater that has a high concentration of dissolved metals and minerals as appropriate to their native habitat. They need longer days, with exactly 24 hours of day and 24 hours of night. They need 50% more oxygen than creatures on Earth, but the rest of their atmospheric needs are the same. They need water temperatures of 65-70 degrees farenheit. Habitat Design and Containment Requirements: The best enclosure for a single individual of this species would be an acrylic aquarium that is 7.5 feet wide and 10.5 feet long. Their preferred substrate is a mixture of fine and coarse sand. There cannot be any rocks in the aquarium, as the golden shiner can burrow under it and be crushed by the rock. The substrate needs to be at least 2.5 feet deep to allow for burrowing. The aquarium must be planted, preferably with wiregrass, but any appropriate species of seagrass can be used due to the dangers associated with wiregrass (It will shred unprotected flesh to ribbons). If wiregrass is used, keepers must be cautious when maintaining the exhibit, but the golden shiner will remain unharmed. Social Environment: Golden shiners are typically solitary, but will happily share their exhibit with other golden shiners or other species from their habitat, as they ignore other wildlife unless breeding or feeding. They cannot be kept with alloy snappers however, as the golden shiner will be eaten by the alloy snapper. Reproduction: During August and September, golden shiners will make temporary pairs consisting of one male and one female. The pair will then proceed to dig a shallow pit in the sand, where the female will lay between 1000-1500 eggs, which are then fertilized by the male. The pair will guard their eggs until they hatch, which usually takes four months. Young golden shiners are left to care for themselves once they hatch, and the temporary breeding pair will break up until the next breeding season. Each breeding season happens every other year. Young golden snappers require the same care as their parents, except for their diet. Golden shiners may be left in their usual exhibit during the breeding season, as they require no special accommodations. Dietary Needs: Mature golden shiners only eat shellfish that are native to the wiregrass beds of the Mineral Sea on Illuria. Luckily, their diet is easily replicated in captivity, and there are many species of shellfish to choose from. The shellfish that they eat must be fed a diet of golden algae. The shellfish can be released in the tank for the golden shiners to forage for on their own. Gold algae and the shellfish rapidly reproduce in captivity, so zoos do not need to spend too much money on importing them. The young golden shiners do not feed on shellfish, but directly on the golden algae. Veterinary Care: Golden shiners do not need much veterinary care. They do not get may diseases, and the few parasites that they get are external and large enough to pick off by hand. They do, however, require small gold flakes mixed in with their food once a year, as their gold intake in captivity is usually less than it is in the wild. Behavioral Management: Golden shiners do not require any training. For enrichment, it is best to bury the shellfish that they are fed in the substrate, as it encourages hunting behaviors. Additional Information: It is recommended that zoos with this species dissolve any uneaten shellfish pieces and the shed scales from the golden shiners to give to the gold algae population, as the cost of gold will bankrupt the zoo otherwise. Edited by ZoologicalBotanist, Jan 29 2018, 04:56 PM.
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My Projects Active On Hold Coming Soon My DeviantArt Nature and Wildlife DiscordRandom Quotes and Stuff --Windblown-- I do not know where I will go. I travel where the breeze will blow. For I know, deep in my soul, I am windblown. | |
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| Abacaba | Jan 31 2018, 03:18 AM Post #28 |
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Pointy
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Wandering Eye Errandocula, various species ![]() General Overview: Wandering eyes are small (a few millimeters across at most) organisms, typically a near oval in shape, with two whiplike tentacles used for locomotion. They mostly wander about in search of food, and are able to track their prey to a degree, hunting by enclosing prey in their eye/mouth. They live in most near-surface saltbioxiate environments, though certain species are better suited to certain environments. Ambient Environment: Wandering eyes are typically fairly hardy with regards to variation in oxium, pressure, and temperature (though of course they do need a reasonable level of all these things), but they need saltbioxiate and, though they can survive without it, do a lot better in areas with light than without. Habitat Design and Containment Requirements: Wandering eyes can really just be kept in, like, a c-shaped saltbioxiate-filled bowl or something. If there's a film of bioxiate on the edge, they'll be able to swim out, so it's best to make the upper edges bioxiophobic. Social Environment: They're honestly too dumb to be social. Only reason you should put them in groups is because keeping such small creatures as individuals would be rather pointless. It can generally be put with other creatures provided neither is big enough to eat the other. Reproduction: They reproduce both sexually and asexually, and fairly often, releasing spores into the bioxiates around them afterwards. It's recommended to isolate the spores soon after they are released (usually by skimming them off the surface, if possible,) otherwise most will end up being eaten. Dietary Needs: Wandering eyes will eat anything that fits into their mouths. And, in some species (those with toothlike lens caps), things bigger than their mouths, provided they can be torn to pieces. Nutritionally, a good supply of energy-storing bioxiates, infoelasticenes, and trace elements will generally work quite well. Veterinary Care: Try not to let any diseases or predators get in the container. A sterile environment can be helpful for this, and keeping it separated from the ocean will serve to keep most threats away. Behavioral Management: They cannot be trained, are far too small and behaviorally restricted to even be aware of humans let alone interact with them, and are really just best left alone to do their thing. Additional Information: You'll need some way to view and interact with other dimensions at will. Just a minor note that you should probably be aware of. Additional Photos: ![]() (Near the bottom.) |
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| Victorbrine | Feb 3 2018, 12:31 PM Post #29 |
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Adult
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Sand Hand Hannibalus Loreliusidae General Overview: The Sand Hand is a large tree, with the maximum height reaching half the height of Earth's Redwoods. They are liquivore and thus feed on unsuspecting animals (so it's kind of a carnivorous plant). Here is a better description of this plant (from my project Eo): Probably the most dangerous plant on Eo. This plant is liquivore, it uses a special root that can stab a prey, liquify the interiors and suck up the meal. However, this tentacle is slow and preys can easily escape the slow tentacle in order to not getting stabbed. So this tree has developed a way to make its prey weaker. All along its body are sacs full of corrosive liquid. There are hair like filaments on the trunk and are separated each other of a couple of meters. This tree is tall, probably half the length of the largest Redwood tree on Earth. CO2 escapes from these filaments, and it can suffocate some animals. However this is not what it uses to kill. The acid then drips of from higher branches and rains down to the ground. On the ground, unaware preys are struck by this deadly rain. Their skin start to melt, and they get weaker. Vulnerable to anything, the preys are then stabbed by the tree's special root and are slowly eaten. Sandhands produce a corrosive liquid which actually depends of the individuals location in Amazia's plain (on the home planet). It could be an anhydrid or an alkali metal. The production of the corrosive liquid creates CO2 in the tree's trunk, thus evacuated through those filaments. Ambient Environment: Sand hands must be in a mildly humid environment. That is because the Amazian plains, although the driest parts of Eo, are still a little humid, at least with the same humidity level as some European countries. It needs a relatively good lighting, daytime, since... well... they're plants so photosynthesis is still important. The ground where its roost are must be filled with alkali metals, preferably Lithium, that is used by those plants to produce their corrosive liquid, in order to weaken their prey. It can survive in temperatures between 15 up to 40 C. Cultivation: One of the most common mistake in taking care of a Sand Hand is that most treat it as a plant. No... don't treat it like a plant. Treat it as if it was an animal. Their main food source are animals so feed it a couple medium to large sized animals when in captivity. Also it is best to cultivate it in open air as it can grow quite tall. Make sure the ground has a good amount of alkali metals as mentioned before. Additional Information: Don't take it indoor (if you can in the first place). It produces more CO2 than it absorbs, and without any plants next to it for absorbing all the CO2, you will suffocate and die. Even outdoor, you must have some other plants to absorb any excess CO2. |
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“There's a tree," Starflight said, jumping to his feet. "In the forest." "No way," Glory said. "A tree in the forest?” "Ce corps qui s'appelait et qui s'appelle encore le saint empire romain n'était en aucune manière ni saint, ni romain, ni empire." -Voltaire "So if you wake up in the morning and it's a particularly beautiful day you'll know we made it." -Capa "One of those capsules hit a wing." Victor said. "Had to do an emergency landing." He pointed to a crumpled plane a couple dozen meters behind him and shrugged. "Not my most elegant landing." -me in Flisch's story "Spec Evo: Void Entry" (Act 3) "but by rule 34 of the multiverse, if it exists, there’s a world full of it." -Tet "I must ask you to leave now." -Everyone (not realy though) in Flisch's story "Spec Evo: Void Entry" Projects Status My Blog (SE Blog) Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCyBzYPIsLp0uHoPtT6ZEyww | |
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| ZoologicalBotanist | Feb 19 2018, 09:08 AM Post #30 |
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Mixotrophic Sea Slug
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Ya-Te-Veo Bromeliad Brocchinia Yateveo ![]() General Overview: The ya-te-veo bromeliad is a descendant of the carnivorous bromeliad Brocchinia Reducta. It's large size allows it to take advantage of prey such as tinahoppers. Prey are attracted by the smell of the digestive juices, previously trapped prey, and berries. This plant has stiff leaves that slope outward, allowing animals to climb it. at the center, the leaves suddenly drop into a pit. the sides and edges of the pit are slippery, causing prey to lose their balance and fall (think pitcher plant for trapping methods). Although the trap is aboveground, The main digestive portion is underground. Once trapped, prey are digested in an underground chamber. All parts of vertebrate prey are digested, including bones. Ya-Te-Veo bromeliads bloom in the spring, producing white flowers on the ends of tall stalks that reach half a meter above the plant. Once pollinated by insects, the flowers turn into attractive berries that are eaten by birds. The seeds in the berries survive the digestive system, and may sprout in the location that the birds droppings landed. The plant's root system grows into an underground bulb that stores water and nutrients. If the upper portion is destroyed in the frequent fires that sweep through its habitat, it can regrow from the underground portion and the bulb. Ya-Te-Veo bromeliads never stop growing. the average is an upper portion of 85 cm, but some have reached 1.5 meters. Ambient Environment: This plant needs dry, warm habitats, with day/night cycles equivalent to Brazil, South America, in the Modern Earth. Water should be provided in small amounts once a week. If the center of the plant dries out, it can safely be filled halfway with water. Air is the same as Earth air. Cultivation: This plant should not be fertilized. Mature individuals should be fed a small animal, preferably a tinahopper or similarly sized species, once a week. Smaller specimens should have their prey scaled down accordingly. Flowers can be pollinated by hand, but must be pollenated with the pollen of a different individual. This plant takes 1 year to mature and bloom. 50% f all seeds sprout in captivity, although only 25% sprout in the wild. Seeds can be planted and grown in the same conditions as the adults. |
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My Projects Active On Hold Coming Soon My DeviantArt Nature and Wildlife DiscordRandom Quotes and Stuff --Windblown-- I do not know where I will go. I travel where the breeze will blow. For I know, deep in my soul, I am windblown. | |
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